Recently in Summer

Meyer Lemon Relish

Recipe Adapted from Chez Panisse Cafe Cookbook

During the summer, the markets are full of beautiful Meyer lemons.  They are so sweet and fragrant and can be used in many dishes.  This relish is so good with seafood.  The other night I served it with salmon and an heirloom tomato salad.  Wonderful.  But, considering it's a recipe by Alice Waters . . . I expect nothing less than wonderful.

Next time I make it, I will slice the shallots and lemon even finer . . . 

Ingredients:

• 1 large shallot, diced fine
• 1 TBSP white wine vinegar
• Sea salt
• 1 large Meyer lemon
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 TBSP chopped parsley
• 1 TBSP chopped chervil or chives
• Pepper

Method:

Place diced shallot in a bowl and add the vinegar and a pinch of salt.  Let it sit for 10-15 minutes.  

Cut the lemon into 8 wedges.  Remove the seeds and core gently and but each wedge in half (lengthwise)  Slice the wedges crosswise into thin slivers.  This will make about a 1/2 cup.  

Combine the lemon slivers, shallot and another pinch of salt.  Stir in the olive oil, parsley, chives and some fresh ground pepper.  Taste and season.

Baked Baby Artichokes in Sauvignon Blanc

Adapted from The French Market Cookbook by Joanne Harris and Fran Wade

I've mentioned my Northern California roots in many of these recipes.  The farm fresh vegetables found at the local produce stands and farmer's markets are second to none.  Now that I live in Colorado, access to fresh baby artichokes at the beginning of summer is something I miss.  I could have them 100 different ways during the summer and never tire of the sweet tender flavor.  When you can find them, try this recipe for an elegant and seasonally fresh side dish.  I started with a recipe from the wonderful book, The French Market and made a few minor variations.

Ingredients:

• 12 whole small / baby artichokes
• 1/2 cup Italian parsley, chopped
• 10 sprigs of thyme, leaves removed and chopped
• 5 garlic cloves, chopped
• 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• sea salt
• freshly ground pepper
• 1 cup dry white Sauvignon or Fume Blanc (Groth or Ferrari Carrano works well)
• 1 3/4 stick unsalted butter

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.  Cut off the stalk from the base of each artichoke and pull off outer leaves.  Cut top off about 1/3 of the way down.  Scrape out the inner choke.

Stand each artichoke upright in a casserole dish.  Add equal amounts of the parsley, thyme, garlic and oil to the center of each choke and lightly season with sea salt and pepper.  Pour in the white wine and cover tightly with aluminum foil to make a seal.  Bake about 35 minutes or until tender.

Remove artichokes into 6 shallow bowls.  Place casserole dish with remaining fluid over burner on a high heat to bring to boil.  Add the butter and cook until the liquid reduces by half.  Spoon into the center of each artichoke and serve.

Heirloom Tomato Salad

During the peak of summer when heirloom tomatoes are at their best, why get complicated?  Heirlooms, olive oil and garden fresh herbs are all you need for a delicious summer salad.  The taste is incredible and the wide variety of colors from green to yellow and purple with add life to your dinner table.

Ingredients:

• 4 large heirloom tomatoes of varying colors, cored and sliced 1/4 inch thick
• 1/4 cup basil leaves, chopped
• 1/4 cup thyme leaves, chopped
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• sea salt
• freshly cracked black peppercorns
• sliced pecorino romano cheese (optional)

Core tomatoes using paring knife and slice thinly.  Remove basil and thyme leaves from herb stems and chop.  Place tomatoes in a bowl and add olive oil and sprinkle with herbs.  Add sea salt and pepper.  Serve with sliced romano cheese.

Shaved Summer Squash with Squash Blossoms

from A Platter of Figs by David Tanis.I can't say enough about this book.  Every recipe is so fresh and simple, allowing the seasonal ingredients to shine without over seasoning or complicated sauces masking their flavors.  When I was looking for a fresh way to enjoy summer squash this recipe did the trick.  It only takes a few ingredients and minutes of your time to assemble this beautiful summery and colorful dish.

Ingredients:

• 2 pounds small yellow zucchini
• salt and pepper
• olive oil
• 1 lemon
• 12 squash blossoms
• 1/2 pound ricotta salata or mild feta

Rinse zucchini and wipe dry.  Cut off both ends of each zucchini.  Using a mandoline or sharp thin-bladed knife, cut the squash lengthwise into very thin slices.  Put the squash into a large bowl and cover with a damp towel and until you're ready to serve.

Just before serving season the squash lightly with salt and pepper and toss gently.  Drizzle with olive oil just to coat.  Add the juice of half the lemon.  Toss again, taste and adjust the seasoning.

Mound the dressed squash on a platter.  Tear the squash blossoms (petals only) into strips and scatter them over the salad.  With a sharp vegetable peeler, shave the cheese over the platter.  Serve immediately.

Summer Squash, Yukon Gold Potato & Heirloom Tomato Gratin

Ingredients:

• 1 garlic clove, smashed
• 1 medium onion, thinly sliced
• 1 1/2 pounds yellow summer squash and zucchini, cut into 1/4-inch slices
• 1/2 teaspoon  sea salt
• 1/4 cup fresh basil leaves (use Thyme or Oregano as a variation)
• 1/4 cup fresh Italian parsley
• 2 large garlic cloves, chopped
• 1/4 teaspoon sea salt
• 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/4 cup unsalted butter
• 2 cups fresh sourdough bread crumbs (see below)
• 1/2 pound yukon gold potatoes, sliced very thin (almost transparent)
• 1-1.5 pounds large Heirloom tomatoes, cored and sliced 1/4 inch thick (varying colors of tomatoes)
• 3/4 cup freshly grated Gruyere cheese, grated  (try goat cheese or feta as a nice variation)
• 1 1/4 cup freshly grated parmesan-reggiano

Preheat oven to 375 degrees and place a rack in the middle. Rub a 2 qt. gratin pan (or equivalent baking dish but preferably oval) with a bit of olive oil then take one garlic clove - smash it and rub over inside of pan,  and set aside.

In a  skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onions and sauté, stirring frequently, until transparent and slightly golden - about 15 minutes. Reduce the heat  if they're browning too quickly. Add the garlic and sauté until soft and fragrant, about 1 minute. Spread the onions and garlic evenly in the bottom of the oiled gratin dish. Let cool.

To make the sauce: puree the basil, parsley, garlic, 1/4 teaspoon salt, red pepper flakes, and olive oil in a food processor or using a hand blender. Set aside.

Put the tomato slices on a shallow plate to drain for a few minutes and then discard the collected juices. Make sure they isn't much juice left as it could make the dish runny.

Make the breadcrumbs take approximately 1/2 loaf of bakery day old sourdough bread (you need enough to make 2 cups) and cut it into 2 inch strips.  Bake for 10 minutes in oven at 400 degrees until golden.  Grind in food processor until blended but not too fine.  Set aside.  Then melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Cook for a few minutes until the butter is  fragrant, and has turned golden. Wait a few, then stir the breadcrumbs into the browned butter.

Transfer the squash to a large mixing bowl. Add the potatoes and two-thirds of the oregano sauce. Toss until everything is well coated. Add the gruyere cheese and half of the bread crumbs and toss again. Taste the zucchini and add more seasoning if needed.

(Note:  Quantities are approximate on layering.  The size and slicing of layered vegetables may vary so just use your judgement as you layer - it's possible you'll be left with extra veggies)

Starting at one end of the baking dish, lay a row of slightly overlapping tomato slices across the width of the dish and sprinkle with a little of the cheese. Next, lay a row of zucchini, overlapping the tomatoes by two-thirds, and sprinkle with cheese. Then add layer of potato.  Repeat with a row of squash, and then repeat rows, sprinkling each with cheese, until the gratin is full., top with the remaining crumbs and sprinkle with parmesan, and bake until well-browned all over and the juices have have reduced and have been bubbling, 60 to 70 min. If the breadcrumbs start to get a little dark, take a fork and scrape them lightly to rotate less cooked bits.  Remove from oven, and drizzle lightly with the remaining basil sauce.  Let cool for 15 to 20 minutes prior to serving.

Fried Squash Blossoms

by Oui Cook Chef Rocco Hanson

www.OuiCook.com

Rocco and Aimee Hanson own a wonderful and inventive culinary company called Oui Cook in Mendocino, California. Describing them as caterers or even as chefs just does not do them justice.  What they really do is create an ambiance for your event or private dinner that includes wonderfully prepared food.  I have first hand experience with Oui Cook.  Over the last few years, my family has insisted on Rocco and Aimee for any of our private parties.

This year, they prepared all of the food for our July 4th party.  Coming from a long line of culinary control freaks, I appreciate Rocco's creative flexibility if we have ideas for the menu.  We asked him to make some of our favorites as well as his specialties.  One of the most popular items that day was Rocco's fried squash blossoms.  He has been making these for years and they are consumed faster than anything.

When squash blossoms are available, please try this recipe.  We opted to add bacon to this filling recipe and served with a tomato coulis.  There are many other variations you can make.

Ingredients:

• Zucchini squash blossoms

Blossom Filling:

• 2 cups Ricotta
• 1 cup high quality Parmesan
• 1 egg
• salt / pepper
• 1 cup sweet white corn kernels

Batter:

• 1.5 cup flour
• 3/4 cup sparking mineral water

Tomato Coulis.

In a blender . . .

• 10  tomatoes peeled and seeded
• 2T  red wine vineagar
• 2T sugar
• 1T black pepper
• 1C good tomato juice ( for color )
• 3/4C good olive oil (slowly added )
• 1/2C Chives
• 1/2C Basil

Method:

Remove pistol from blossom

Cut stem to the desired length.

Cook corn in salted water and remove kernels from the cob

Mix Ricotta, egg, Parmesan cheese, and corn.  Using a piping bag, pipe the filling into each squash blossom (This step may be done a day in advance)

In a separate bowl, mix flour and mineral water and rest for ½ hour. You need to adjust consistency to how thick or thin you want the batter. I keep it really thin so that the focus is on the squash blossom.  Dip each blossom into the batter.  The batter will hold, just do not bunch blossoms up together.... Coat well, let some fall off.  Don't make it too wet!

Heat olive oil – not to smoking point – and cook until golden. You may shallow fry or deep fry.You may also roast it in an oven with no batter or oil.  Place on platter and spoon tomato coulis over blossom.

www.OuiCook.com • Rocco Hanson • Fan Us: Facebook.com/Oui-Cook

photos by John Birchard - www.birchardphoto.com